If you love barbecue and live in St. Pete, there is at least one unfortunate truth: there essentially has been nowhere in downtown to get good smoked meats. Luckily, that has changed, thanks to Voodoo Brewing Co.
Their smoker first got our attention when they debuted their smoked wings, which we quickly called some of the best in town. Now, the team in their scratch kitchen has doubled down on the Q and rolled out smoked brisket every weekend. A few of us from the I Love the Burg team went last weekend to try it out, and as someone raised on the merits of good meat smoked properly, I came away highly impressed with the product at the downtown hotspot.
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It was, definitively, some of the best brisket I’ve had anywhere in St. Pete. Pair it up with the world-class beer selection at Voodoo, and I have to imagine that’s a slice of what heaven is like. The slow-smoked brisket comes served four ways, and it’s only available on Saturdays and Sundays until it sells out.
Of course, there’s a reason it’s only available two days per week. Voodoo is doing it the right way, taking their time with rubs, smoking, and preparation. They took us into the kitchen to see them slice open a fresh cut. From the crispy outside to the juicy meat in the middle, just seeing that was enough to work up an appetite.
It’s no surprise they know what they’re doing. The man on the smoker came to Voodoo from the now-shuttered Urban Brew & BBQ. Grand Central’s loss is Downtown’s gain, in this case. Voodoo is making those two days count with these new specials.
Brisket four ways, with beers to match
Now, for the food itself. We tried all four varieties of brisket dishes, and while I do have a favorite, it borders on the impossible to decide. The Obey Your Pitmaster sandwich is the choice for traditionalists – sliced brisket loaded up with crispy onions, melted cheddar and pickles, served atop Texas Toast, and topped with a drizzle of Voodoo’s housemade Good Vibes BBQ sauce. A nice hefeweizen or wheat beer makes the Good Vibes sauce sing.
The more casual option is the Brisket Nachos, and it’s a great pick for a group to share. Voodoo’s house-fried corn tortilla chips are worth a story in their own right. Add in the shredded brisket, fresh jalapenos, beer cheese, pico, BBQ sauce and lime crema, and you’ve got something special. Pair it with the IPA of your choice to give those jalapenos an extra kick.
The Brisket Tacos offer a classic, Austin-style take. Flour tortillas loaded to the point of bursting with brisket, onions and fresh jalapenos, along with a pair of sauces to either dip or drizzle. For a mix of taste and approachability without making a mess, this is hard to beat. To drink, nothing pairs better with a slightly spicy taco than a clean lager.
And finally, my personal favorite: The Burnt Ends of Sanity. As a lover of sandwiches and smoked meats alike, this was destined to be my top pick, and as the last thing I tried, it still managed to surpass my high expectations. The cross-section of the massive sandwich is a borderline work of art if you cut it in half before eating, and that also helps cut down on the number of napkins you’ll need. Inside the brioche bun, the mix of smoky brisket, melted cheddar, pickled jalapenos and hot honey is a veritable symphony for the senses. This is what every sandwich should aspire to be. I paired it with DuClaw’s chocolate peanut butter porter, a perfectly sweet and flavorful balance for the sweet-and-spicy sandwich.
If reading this worked up the same appetite that writing it did, then I hope for your sake the weekend is near. The brisket specials are available starting at opening, 11 am, every Saturday and Sunday. Voodoo remains open until midnight on Saturdays and 10 pm on Sundays. Learn more and see the full restaurant menu here.
