News Flash: Just as we were about to go to press with Nanette’s latest review, we learned that the St. Pete Brasserie was changing hands. New owner Justin Chamoun says he’s planning a few, important, cosmetic changes over the next few weeks. As a first level sommelier, he’s also planning to apply his expertise to the wine list. Excellent service, on par with the wine, is also in the plan. One thing that won’t change: the menu. Justin says he was a fan of the Brasserie before he heard it was for sale.
Weekly Food Review by Nanette Wiser, The Inquisitive Tongue
Let me confess, I love a good breast. Since Wednesday celebrates with discounts on the seared duck dish (celeriac root and spicy cherry gastrique), I don my beret and dash to St. Pete Brasserie for joie de Humpday. Sometimes, I dabble in the confit of duck in braised red cabbage and Yukon gold mashed potatos or fragrant cassoulet with duck confit and sausage. Paired with a Kronenbourg beer or Paso Robles Justin Cab, you’ll quack for joy.
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For two years, Andrew ‘Wilko’ Wilkins’ charming bistro has served affordable French food, fab wines and on Friday and Saturday nights, live music in the 539 Lounge (their lunch café). The Brass’s service, casual modern décor, happy hour specials, innovative cocktails, pristine wine list and fantastic French cuisine draws a stylish crowd, hobnobbing about Twilight, day trading and posh Antigua wanderings. A frequent diner’s card is yet another Brass perk, punched double on Tuesday for ordering lunch or dinner.
If you can, dine Tuesday for the $22 prix-fixe menu served from 4-7 p.m. including soup, salad and choice of entrée. For seafood lovers, don’t miss Thursday’s discounts on black fin snapper sautéed in caper brown butter and served with brussel sprouts and baby new potatoes or grilled tuna Provencal in a a tomato, olive and fennel sauce, accompanied by haricot verts. Mussels dressed in a new sauce daily come with a heap of pommes frites with garlic aioli and the seafood paella (shrimp, calamari, mussels and chorizo) star as well.
Sandwiches depart from the ordinary, especially the classic Croque-Monsieur, smoked salmon croissant with dill cream cheese, beef au jus drizzled in white cheddar, grilled curry eggplant cooled by raita and crisp pork belly with arugula and tomato. I love to make a meal of the savory onion soup, chicken or smoked salmon mousse and cheese plate or ahi tuna Nicoise (green beans, tomato, olives, hard-boiled egg) or Asian grilled chicken salad.
Looking for surf and turf? Share a starter of the crab cakes or tuna tartare, then let your inner carnivore loose on the beef bouguignon, rib eye or rack of lamb with coucous and wilted spinach. Lavished with TLC, Brass’s vegetables titillate, especially the grilled asparagus with Bernaise and ratatouille. For sure, save room for dessert and everything chocolate.
Or you can sip your supper and take a cab home. Enjoy small batch bourbons, melt-in-your mouth cognacs, old school drinks (seasonal fresh fruit daiquiris) and clever concoctions such as the Chancehattan (Buffalo Trace bourbon, cherry juice, sweet vermouth and orange bitters) or Pomm Crush (pomegranate vodka shaken with an orange half, topped with cranberry and soda).
Ladies swear by the Strawberry Fields (vanilla vodka, Liquor 43, fresh strawberries, pineapple and mint) while wise guys nip a Filthy Belvedere vodka martini topped with blue-cheese stuffed olives.
An excellent priced wine list features worthy Rhones, Pinots, Sauvignon Blanc and other elegant vintages and the beer list (both bottled and draft) get a tip of the beret.
St. Pete Brasserie, 539 Central Ave. (727) 823-3700
Photos courtesy of St. Pete Brasserie and Enchanted Forest Photography
Nanette Wiser is a freelance writer and executive editor of The Inquisitive Tongue.
She reports on dining, travel and entertainment. Originally a syndicated writer and San Diego-based reporter and web producer, her articles have appeared in more than 500 papers and magazines, including AOL, Food.com, TBT, United Hemispheres, San Diego Magazine, California Magazine, San Francisco Examiner, San Diego Union Tribune, New York Post and more. Follow her blog, here.
Become a member of iLovetheBurg Downtown St. Pete on Facebook here.
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